New Orleans -- The Music

We come to New Orleans for two reasons -- the food and the music. [Actually, we also come for the art and just to get away ....]. In this post, we wanted to talk about the music we have heard on this trip:

Ellis Marsalis Trio -- We started off Friday night with the early show at Snug Harbor. Snug Harbor, as the name implies, is a tiny little bandbox of a jazz room. The entire place fits maybe 75 people in a room the size of a small living room (with a balcony above). It defines the intimate setting and it is the home to some fantastic jazz. We were seated 10 feet from the stage to hear the Ellis Marsalis trio. Ellis Marsalis is both literally and figuratively the "father of New Orleans jazz." Figuratively because his music captures the heart of classic New Orleans style rhythms and literally because 4 of his sons (Wynton, Branford, Delfayo and Jason) have followed in his footsteps and play magnificent music.

Ellis played a great set filled with everything from a cover of "These are a Few of My Favorite Things" (from the Sound of Music) that reminded us of the great Coltrane cover of the same song, to two tunes from his recent homage to Thelonius Monk, including our favorite "Straight, No Chaser." Combined with his own compositions the result was a quiet excellence that just uplifited you. His backups were well up to the task, especially the drummer (whose name we did not catch) who played most of the set with his eyes closed -- feeling the music rather than seeing it. On the whole, the experience was near magic.

New Orleans Preservation Hall Jazz Band -- The Marsalis set ended early enough that we still had some time on our hands. So coming home, we stopped at the Preservation Hall. Katy had never heard them. There we got a nice one-set dose of classic dixieland jazz. The clarinetist had great style and the trombonist was a showman. The band played some old gospel, some swing and ended the evening with the classic "When the Saints." We wouldn't say the music was as technically fine as Ellis Marsalis -- but anyone who can hear the "Saints" and not walk out of the room smiling has no musical soul.

Jeremy Davenport -- Davenport headlines the music at the Davenport Lounge in the Ritz-Carlton. We had been planning to go to Tipitina's Uptown for music Saturday night, but dinner ran late and we didn't want to schlep all the way out to the Uptown area, so on a lark we stopped in the lounge. It's a classic New Orleans hotel lounge -- comfy chairs and expensive drinks. Davenport was backed by a 4-piece combo and they played alot of swing era and Brat Pack type favorites. It was well styled and many folks got up to dance, but Davenport's voice wasn't up to the lyrics. On the whole a "B" at best -- not bad but not music to die for.

The James River Movement -- For Sunday Jazz Brunch, we stayed at or hotel (The Roosevelt) for brunch in the Blue Room. What a fun time! The music itself was pretty good -- not great but pretty good. They played the classics including Fats Domino's "Blue Monday" and some downriver Blues (as well as the "Saints," of course). And the lead player had a neat way of playing -- for example, his harmonica was hooked to his flute, so he could switch between the two instruments seamlessly.

But what made the music was the crowd. On one side of the room there must have been 50 people there to celebrate Alysha's birthday (we know her name because we all sang for her). Alysha turned 80 recently and most of the other guests were her contemporary septuagenarians.

And boy were they having a great time. When the band played a tune they knew, they sang along. When he started to play the Blues, they waved their napkins in the air. And to top it off, the whole lot of them got up and danced a "second line" on the dance floor, led by the birthday girl. It was so exuberant and joyous that you couldn't help but smile -- and we smiled so much that our smile muscles hurt. All of which goes to show that music is about more than the notes on the page -- its about the emotions and pleasures it stirs in the heart. I hope that when I turn 80 I can have as much joy in my life.

Music is part of what makes New Orleans the place it is. Usually, we come down during JazzFest and get overwhelmed. This time, we heard some great stuff and still had time just to hang out.