Sunday, July 31, 2011

Travels with Josh -- Naples


Well, we've been a little slow about writing up the trip with Josh. So many things to do and so much say that it just seemed like we never got started. But our friend, Sandy, complained when we saw her this past week, so it seems we should do it ... if only for her!

Our trip with Josh started in Naples. We went there mostly because Josh was fascinated with Mt. Vesuvius and the eruption that destroyed Pompeii. Of course, it was also our first taste of Italy generally -- with its pizza and crowded streets and fast talking people. In the end Naples seemed a bit like a place out of time -- a bit of a throwback to a bygone era. We stayed at a wonderful hotel -- the Weekend a Napoli -- where our hosts made us feel at home. Indeed, it was a former home in a quiet residential section of Naples. A bit away from the downtown city center but we recommend it highly.

Our first excursion was to the top of Mt. Vesuvius. Pretty cool place -- you could actually see steam rising from the caldera and smell the sulfur. We had seen something similar when we were in Hawaii, but for Josh this was a new experience.

All of us saw something new the next day when we toured Herculaneum and Pompeii. Herculaneum was something like a suburb town. It wasn't covered in ash, like Pompeii. Instead the people there were all killed by the pyroclastic blast 2 or 3 days after the initial eruption and the buried in a mud slide. As a result, Herculaneum is very well preserved. We saw villas and a community pool. Perhaps one of the coolest things we saw, however, was the first fast food restaurant in history (maybe). Apparently, the Romans would keep food in round pots, set to stand out on the street in a stone and marble container. Busy Romans would stop by to purchase -- soups kept hot or olives kept cold. Pretty cool stuff and amazingly well-preserved.

Pompeii was equally interesting. Far larger than Herculaneum it had a large forum and public baths. The construction of the baths showed how advanced the Romans were, bringing steam heat up through the flooring, with cold running water in the adjacent cold plunge. Pompeii was a port city as well, with the attendant commercial enterprises. We saw an ancient wood-burning stove and, to our slight surprise, the remains of a house of ill-repute. Pompeii was more damaged than Herculaneum, but still the sights were overwhelming. As Katy said, "it was almost as if you could feel the history around you."

After a busy day touring, we hoped a late afternoon train for Rome. Trains in Italy are one of the highlights (lowlights include the crowds and the graffiti) -- all of them were clean and on-time, making transit easy as pie.

Saturday, July 16, 2011

Ristorante Divin Peccato -- Rome, Italy -- 3 Stars

Earlier this month we went touring in Italy with our grandson Joshua. This is the first post from that trip and it is about the best restaurant we found in Rome -- Divin Peccato, which means the Divine Sin.

Divin Peccato is a restaurant/wine bar located near the Piazza Rovere on the St. Peter's side of the Tiber, across from the main part of town. It's quieter over there (where we stayed) and less crowded. We were wandering buy during the day and stuck our heads in, and the owner/chef offered us a taste of a wine just for saying hello -- that kind of friendliness sold us, so we made a reservation and went back.

Our hearts warmed further when we walked in and found the music being played was just the kind of jazz we loved -- Miles Davis' Kind of Blue and the like, provided a great background for the dinner. We also rather enjoyed the friendliness of the staff and also their good natured reaction when the incompetent electricity company (who were doing work near by) twice briefly cut the electricity to the restaurant.

But of course the real selling point was the food. We started with a well prepared fish platter with octopus, salmon and squid on it. Not that hard, rubbery squid and octopus we are always familiar with but instead the soft, well-prepared, tasty squid that sucks up the vinegar sauce perfectly. The highlight of the fish platter was a cod with garlic preparation that was "divine." And Josh enjoyed his fresh bruschetta too.

Our main courses were also good (though Josh didn't like his lamb, sadly). Paul had a bifsteak with a sweet balsamic sauce and Katy had the pasta with swordfish -- both simply prepared and well accompanied by the Riflessi wine we were served (a great bottle at just 13 euros). Paul closed out with cheese and we all had a happy evening. It is highly recommended.