Sunday, October 26, 2014

A Great Week in Costa Rica

As most of the readers of this blog know, we bought land in Costa Rica earlier this year and we are, slowly but surely, moving forward toward building a house there.  Our long term plan is to live there in the winters and maybe a bit of an escape in DC summer as well.  In the short-term, however, we need to get stuff done to start making the house a reality ... and so we've been going down to Costa Rica every other month or so to move the ball along.

This one was a really good trip.  To start with, the weather was pretty good.  The rainy season in Costa Rica is from June to November, with the really bad times in September and October.  And we did see a bit of that, including one deluge that was pretty immense.  But on the whole, the rain was mild, and only in the afternoons.  On the last day, the sun came out and we had a magical day -- some of the weather that was part of the reason we chose Costa Rica in the first place.  Add to that that we had another great visit at Casa Laurin, the B&B where we stay when we are on these working trips -- we can't say enough good about the owner Ginette Laurin -- she's just a gem to find.

But the real value of the trip was in how successful it was.  We made a lot of progress towards our dream.

To start with, we managed to finally organize a bank account.  Katy had opened an account in her own name earlier in the year.  But we never had any real way of working with it.  It took a couple of visits to the bank, but by the end of the week we had a bank ATM card, some checks, and, best of all, access to the banking system via the internet.   [An aside for Paul's cyber friends they have an interesting two-factor authentication system -- when you register on line you get a card with 20 random digits/letters/symbols and when you login they ask you, for example, to give them the third, seventeenth and eighth, in that order ...].  So, now, we have a working bank account -- and our next step is to make sure we can use their inter-bank transfer system ...

The second success was a small one but it made us feel pretty good -- we found a store we were looking for on our own.   That doesn't sound that special, does it?  But the addressing system in Costa Rica is totally wack and so learning it and managing to use it is a real achievement.  Here's the address we found:  200 m este y 75 m norte de la Iglesia de San Martin.  In other words you have to know where the Church of San Martin is and then go 200 meters east and 75 meters north ... no street address; no street name.  Just a relative direction -- so you ask where the church is and then chase it.  And so we did ... and found it!


The store we got to was a Claro -- one of the local telecom companies.   So success #3 was the simple one of buying two new cell phones and getting two Costa Rican cell phone numbers for people to call.  Small step -- but essential to getting information and staying connected.  [Paul even managed to set up his Skype account so that it forwards to his Costa Rican cell number.]

Then on to the next step (and this is all still Monday). In the afternoon we went car shopping.  We found a really great dealer, Purdy Motors, and bought ourselves a used 2012 Toyota Rav 4 -- we will probably call him Edgar.   Of course, nothing is quite that easy in Costa Rica.  We had to arrange to for the funds to be transferred via bank transfer from our bank in the US.  It took a couple of days for the transaction to go through.  And meanwhile, of course, we had to find an insurance agent and insure the car.  One interesting aspect of that was the decision we had to make --- how much insurance?  At least in part so that we would be immune from the legal system we got full insurance with no deductible -- a bit expensive but seemed like a decent plan in the end.

And then on to Tuesday ... deep breath.  Katy spent all Tuesday morning the architect making some of the very final decisions about the house.  We are down to the level of what sinks we might want and things like that.  After several hours of effort we are now essentially in the place we need to be -- we can finalize the plan and start taking bids to build the house .....  About the only disappointment in this process (and indeed in the whole week) was the realization that we were going to have to do without the windmill we wanted.  It's just too expensive -- our best guess is that even with Costa Rica's high energy costs the payback period was going to be on the order of 40 years or so.  We wanted to be green -- but green is really not worth it yet.

Tuesday afternoon we went to visit our lawyer.  We started the discussion with him about taking out residence papers.  Because Katy is retired, its easy as pie for her and Paul will become a resident as Katy's dependent -- or, as she says, "my boy toy."  When we go back in January we'll have all the paperwork together to start the filing process.  Again -- it's all details.  Notarized and sealed birth certificates and marriage certificate, plus a "police letter" from DC saying we have clean records.

Wednesday was the day to visit Atenas -- the town where we will live.  Our first visit was to the property where the road is under construction.  You can see, on the left, the footing for the retaining wall.  The road to our property runs up and to the right, with the small triangular structure on our property.  All is well and the new "Calle Freddy" (Freddy is our construction contractor) should be done in another 3-4 weeks.

We then had an opportunity to meet with our property manager, Leticia.  She's a Swiss woman living in Atenas who will take care of all our management stuff -- pay the water bills, arrange for the gardener, etc.  We spent some time with her and now have a really good sense of how much the operational costs will be on an annual basis.  You'd be surprised at all the small items (for example, there is a car tax every December).  We also had a chance to chat with one of our neighbors-to-be and get a better feel for our community.
About the only fly in the ointment here is the issue of water availability.  To be honest we are still not sure -- we keep getting conflicting information. Either there is a problem and we might be delayed in getting our building permits because of water issues ... or there isn't.  When we last heard about it on Friday, it seemed that there was a way forward that would let us break ground in January ... crossed fingers.

Thursday was catch up day.  A quick trip to the bank to get our departure tax paid; and we picked up the car.  We've left it with Ivo, our wonderful realtor, who will take care of it for us until we go back in January.  [Our plan is two months in Atenas this winter -- Jan-Feb.].  [And, as an aside, more good news -- Southwest is opening up direct flights from BWI to San Jose, daily -- super cheap.  Less than $450/person round trip!]  The last bit of business was with Adriana, the landscape designer.  She showed us some great plans -- we're going to have an orange tree; a mango; and even a tamarind tree on the property, plus lots of flowering plants to bring the birds and butterflies.  It will be a few years before they really take root, but when they do, it should be paradise.

And that, in a nutshell, was our week -- several good steps toward paradise!  On to January and ground breaking (crossed fingers).


Monday, March 17, 2014

An Excellent Maui

Well, we are just now finishing up three days in Maui and they really were a highlight of the trip (at least so far).  We had a great time, starting with a great visit with Katy's brother Hank and his friend Dawn -- they seem to be as happy as clams, and we don't blame them given the place they live.

We started off with one of the best dinners we've ever had at the Haliimaile General Store which, despite its name, is not a general store, but a restaurant, run by Bev Gannon.  Special highlights included Paul's Crab Pizza and Katy's Asian Pear Duck Tostada.  Yum.

Then, it was off to go whale watching in Lahina.  That was a special experience.  It more or less sent chills up and down our spines.  Lahina is an old whaling town on the west coast of the island, and today it makes a living running whale tours.  The humpbacks come here for winter to give birth before going back to Alaska for summer.  Probably the coolest thing we saw was a "competition pod" -- a group of males doing dominance things to each other to win the right to mate with a female.  The breaching is sort of showing off I guess.  And we saw one whale actually flip or roll another one as a way of showing his superiority.  It was totally awe inspiring.  Here's a video of one of the whales waving his pectroal fin at us.


The next day was just as special, in a different way.  We went with Hank to go ziplining through the rain forest canopy.  It was cold.  It was wet and rainy.  And it was scary as shit.  But in the end it was totally exhilirating and thrilling to go racing along a zip line at 30 mph through a rain storm.  It was almost like riding in a tree-lined, rain filled tunnel or something.   After that, however, we were cold and wet and just came back to our rental house to chill for the rest of the day.

And today, we finished up with a trip to the southern beaches .... where the sun was shining and the breeze was warm.  But even here the cold intruded -- the Pacific is remarkably chilly water.  Still and all, after another marvelous meal at Gannons (we both had fish tacos with a cool cilantro drizzle), we came home to pack and get ready for the next part of the trip.   Tomorrow on to Kauai.

Monday, March 10, 2014

A Fun Day on the Big Island

Today was one of those fun days that come along whenever we get to travel together that really just about as good as it gets.  We arrived in Hilo last night and it was raining cats and dogs and kept up all night long.  But then, joy of joys, the morning broke and the sun came out.  So we decided to make a day of it.

We started off at a local diner -- Ken's House of Pancakes -- that was just a hoot.  12 types of pancake; 15 types of omelet, endless coffee and plenty of local color.  We had the papaya and guava juice and the guy at the next table had loco moke (rice, meat, eggs and gravy in a bowl) -- which looked scrumptious.  Next time.

Then it was off on adventure.  We started off at Rainbow Falls, just above Hilo.  With the heavy rains last night it was running heavy and if you look close you can see the rainbows from the fall.

Then we took over Saddle Road -- a 50 mile highway that runs through the saddle between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea.  Unfortunately we couldn't see either summit (clouds) but the terrain we saw was stunning.   The volcanic lava fields were  just overwhelming in their starkness -- it looked like something out of Mordor or Game of Thrones frankly.



Then it was down in to Kona, where we stopped for lunch at the Bite Me Bar and Grill.  Highly, highly recommended.  Indeed, the fresh Ahi taco we ate was tuna that had been caught that very morning and landed a couple of hours before we were served.

After lunch we took a walk on the beach in an area that happened to be a large turtle preserve.  Dozens on turtles wandered the shoreline (albeit something that slow can hardly be said to wander) and enjoyed basking in the sun, as did we.

Then it was back over the saddle to Hilo and we now await the evening reception for the class Paul will be teaching tomorrow.

Sunday, February 23, 2014

Sunday, January 26, 2014

Our New Home (to be) in Costa Rica

We've taken the plunge and decided to buy some land in Atenas, Costa Rica.  Over then next 12-18 months we'll build a house on the property.  The land is on a mountain top that has been leveled off.  In the photo it is the plot to the left, higher than its neighbor (which also got sold this week).

Our plan is to build a one-story ranch type hows with an informal great room, a large patio (partially covered) and a master bedroom.  The plateau is very high up -- to the east you can see the Irazu volcano (thankfully extinct at this point).  To the west (which the great room will face) you can see the Pacific Ocean (about 30 miles away).  In fact, views are basically 360 degrees around.

We picked Atenas area for a couple of reasons.  First, the weather is perfect.  It's low 80s every day; low 60s every night -- all year round.  The rainy season does see afternoon thunderstorms but we can deal with that.  Atenas itself is a small town of 20,000 or so including all the surrounding area.  It has a few nice restaurants and a local farmer's market on Fridays.  It lacks some of the high end stuff we tend to enjoy (good wine, for example) but Escazu is about 30 minutes away -- and that place is almost like home.  Lots of malls, good places to eat, and even an jazz club.

We aren't planning on moving here full time -- but we do hope to spend much of each winter down here.  Of course, Paul will travel back to DC for work as needed.  And we probably will also come and escape the DC summer heat a bit too ....

Anyway, here is a video of our lot that shows the whole land.  It's taken from the southern end (the right hand end in the picture above).  Total area is about 7500 square meters.

Wish us luck on Paul & Katy's next excellent adventure ....

Friday, January 17, 2014

Market Day in Atenas

Every Friday is market day in Atenas, with our
 local farmers and produce.  Here are some photos including the fishmonger and some of the  fruits and veggies available. 

Prices are amazingly low -- on the order of $2 for bags of raspberries and less than 50 cents from avacados etc.  Tonight is corvina w/ grilled veggies.  Yum
 


Thursday, January 16, 2014

A Typical Day in Paradise

We've been here in Costa Rica for 11 days now, and we are starting to settle in to a routine that will likely see us through to the end of the trip.  I thought I'd share a typical day (which we also share with two furry friends, the dog and the cat owned by the gardener, Jaime, who lives on the property -- they are frequent guests). 

We wake each morning more or less with the sunrise -- around 6 AM.  First step for the day is to start the pot of excellent Costa Rican coffee and sit in a chair overlooking the valley, reading the newspaper on our Ipad/Nexus.   After a bit of that, its time for breakfast al fresco (lots of great fruit around -- strawberries and pineapple in particular) and then a walk.

The walks are quite vigorous as we live in very hilly neighborhood that is at altitude.  Probably up and down
roughly 1000 feet each day in total.  Pretty strenuous.  Then Paul typically follows up with an exercise work out before settling in to work.

Working from Costa Rica is turning out to be pretty easy.  With Skype we can stay connected by phone or video and Paul's work usually doesn't require more than internet access.  About the only think that gets lost is his ability to be physically present for some meetings -- which is a cost but more in the nature of "out of sight; out of mind" than in actually missing any critical events.

Meanwhile Katy is spending the days reading, or learning Spanish.  She plans to do some painting too -- though she hasn't started that yet.

We break for lunch and then again for cocktails as the sun sets around 545 PM.  Dinner is either out at a local Tican restaurant or cooking in.  Fridays is market day for the farmers, so tomorrow we plan a nice meal at home with whatever we get fresh in the morning.

In the evening it gets dark -- very dark.  One of the few flaws we've found is the lack of bright lighting in Costa Rica.  So we read a bit, or watch a video on the computer and then its early to bed -- usually by 10 AM -- and start it all over the next day.

Of course, we vary the routine.  This Saturday we are going to go and look at some houses -- just on speculation -- to see what's available.  Yesterday we went down to the shopping mall in Escazu.  But by and large, its a nice, quiet existence.

Saturday, January 11, 2014

NatsGnome in the Jungle and at the Beach

 NatsGnome went with us the other day to Carara National Park and Playa Hermosa.  Here he is with Mike Kunzer; living in the jungle; and enjoying a relaxing moment with Katy.


The Beauty of Costa Rica (and a bit of the Beast)


 Over the last few days, while Mike and Debbie have been here in Costa Rica with us, we've explored two of the national parks -- Poas and Carara.

Poas is a volcano park.  The volcano is "quiet" right now, but as you can see, it isn't really that quiet -- the fumarole's are letting off substantial amounts of  sulfur.  We were told that the circumference of the crater is the largest in the world and it certainly looks that way to me.  It has been a long while since we'd seen anything quite this impressive -- it lets you know the power of Mother Nature.

Then, yesterday, we drove down to Carara.  Carara means "crocodile" in Spanish, I gather.  The park is a small one -- we probably walked 5 miles in and out.  But the wild life was just stunning.  We saw macaws; toucans; lizards; blue morpho butterflies; spider monkeys and a half dozen other types of animals and insects.  We, wisely, chose to hire a guide (Armando) who was truly excellent at spotting the animals -- mostly by sound.   The photo with
the rim is one we took through his telescope.  Neat huh?

We finished the day at Playa Hermosa.  It's a beautiful beach of black volcanic sand.  But the highlight of that visit (sorry, no pictures) was the whale we saw.  Katy spotted the blowhole fountain of water and air first, but as we watched, the whale took a dive and lifted his big back fluke into the air to more or less wave goodbye.

So .... all that beauty has to have a bit of a beast in it.  We found two pieces yesterday.  The first was minor -- we had a flat tire.  All that required was a change (thank you Mike!) and then, today, a quick trip to the auto repair shop to fix the flat tire and remount it instead of the spare.  [And, I should add, the price was amazing -- $4 to fix and repair in under 10 minutes.]

The other "beast" was a bit more challenging -- while we were on the beach at Playa Hermosa our car was robbed.  Oddly, they took only some of the clothing -- which was no big deal.  But in Paul's shorts he had put the keys to the house we are renting and the "clicker" to open the gate to our little community.  So we are spending today fixing the damage -- we have the spare clicker and a new one will be coming Monday.  Meanwhile the locksmith is here pulling the locks to remake the keys.  Overall a real annoyance -- but more than that a bit of a disappointment.

Still and all, we can't complain.  The vistas at Poas and the fauna and flora a Carara were worth the trouble!  Just look at this handsome couple and the tree.


Monday, January 6, 2014

Travels with NatsGnome -- Atenas, CR

We are pleased to announce a new feature to the blog today -- "Travels with NatsGnome."  Over Christmas we got a gift -- more in the nature of a gag than a real gift, we think -- of a nice Nats Gnome.  Seemed like the perfect thing to take on vacation and post pictures of from time to time.  So herewith the first two photos of NatsGnome -- at his new home in Atenas, Costa Rica:


Meanwhile some more news from Atenas more generally.  The weather here is magical (sorry friends in the Northeast and Midwest!).   Each morning it starts out around 70 and warms to the low 80s.  It's sunny but with a nice breeze that is to die for.  In the evenings it cools, so we are down to roughly 65 or so -- just cool enough to take the sting out of the air.  This is the dry season, so we don't expect to see any real rain while we are here.

The house we are staying in is, likewise, a wonderful place.  It is actually three buildings, linked together.  First there is the master bedroom and bathroom with its own balcony.  The master bath has both a shower and a sitting tub (that we haven't tried yet) and a nice couch to lounge on.

The middle building -- accessed by a covered walk way -- is

the main house -- a large great room with dining area and kitchen and sitting area to hang out in.

But the star of the main area is the wrap around porch.  One side, facing south, looks out over the protected nature preserve valley [that's it behind NatsGnome].  The other side, facing west, has a small pool in it and, best of all, a hammock covered by a shade vine -- perfect for lounging.  There is also an outdoor dining table where Paul is working each day and where Katy and Paul are dining in the evening.

Finally, add a small guest cottage with a bedroom and an outdoor shower.  A bit small but comfy -- and who wants to stay indoors anyway.

We'll have more later on life in Costa Rica.  For now we are living the Pura Vida.