A Fantastic Weekend in New York City

In general, New York City is always challenging. The crowds in the city are daunting and the congestion makes getting around a pain in the butt. That having been said, when things fall right, there is no place like New York -- especially if you like good art, good music and good food.

We had one of those magical visits last weekend -- a quick 36 hour trip that packed in all the types of things we just love. It started, as all our good trips to NYC always do, with a pleasant train ride from Union Station to Penn Station. Nothing is really more fun than 3 hours alone on the train to read, or think, or chat.

After dropping our bags at the hotel (the Empire, right across the street from Lincoln Center) we went for a nice walk on the crisp day, across Central Park. Our first stop on the Saturday afternoon was the Frick Museum at 7oth & 5th. They had a wonderful special exhibit of Renoir's full length portraits. This one, "The Promenade" is in their permanent collection and always makes me think of our daughter-in-law and her two girls. The others, including several fantastic pieces we'd never seen before like "Umbrellas," really brought home how special Renoir's painting is. After a suitably extended visit with this small exhibit (just 10 paintings all told) we still had time for a wander through the rest of our Frick to see some old friends -- JMW Turner, Vermeer, Rembrandt. It is always a special pleasure to return someplace you've been before and refresh your memories.

After a nice rest and a nap at the hotel, it was time for our concert at the New York Philharmonic. We've been going for years and the music is always quite fine, but this concert was truly special. We were treated to two of Beethoven's symphonies, No. 2 and No. 7. We'd never heard #2 live before, but of course #7 is quite familiar. And yet these were different. The conductor, David Zinman, has spent the past few years reconstructing the original scoring from when the works were first performed. He has stripped away much of the romantic encrustations that have become so familiar. The result is like hearing these for the first time -- spare, dynamic, and powerful. The musicianship of the players and their sheer joy in playing really made the pieces come alive in new ways The opening phrases of the No. 7 Allegretto were some of the most gentle music we've ever heard and haunting. Throw in Peter Serkin on the piano playing a Stravinsky Capriccio and the music was pure magic.

We capped the day off with dinner at Picholine an very pleasant French restaurant just a couple of blocks away. It was a fine meal (Katy had the lamb; Paul the bass) with a nice French wine that just mellowed the day to an end. We finally rolled into bed around Midnight.

After sleeeping in the next morning, we had a quick breakast at a near by Le Pain Quotidien and then headed over to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The only problem with the visit is we didn't have nearly enough time!!! We began with a small exhibit of Rembrandt and Degas self-portraits. Apparently Degas copied Rembrandt's style and seeing the two together was a revelation.

Then we took a trip back in time to the Renaissance and saw a great exhibit on portraits in Italy from Donatello to Bellini. Watching the style develop was fascinating, as was coming to recognize the idea that individual portraits were "new" at the time. The Donatello bust of a saint which opened the exhibit was truly a sight to behold.

Our third stop was "The Steins Collect." The Stein family (including Gertrude) spent the early 20th century in Paris. Leo Stein had a good eye and a sound business sense and they wound up collecting a number of Matisse and Picasso paintings (as well as several other artists) for absurd prices. One Matisse went for 500 francs (or just $100). Their salon was filled with great impressionist art. What a dream.

Finally, we went to see the work of Fu Baoshi. He was an artist who painted in the "old" Chinese style and lived through the revolution of Sun Yat Sen and then Chaing Kaishek and then Mao. His pictures were quite a joy to look at and something we'd never seen before. Made us want to study Asian art a bit.

And so, tired by happy, we took our seats on the train home and headed back to Washington, after a great weekend in New York.

A Quiet Friday at the Museums

It was a beautiful day here in Washington yesterday and the streets on Capitol Hill were empty. So we went for a pleasant walk down onto the Mall (where the crowds were much bigger) and stopped in at the East Wing of the National Gallery of Art.

They have a couple of neat exhibits there right now. One is "Warhol's Headlines" -- a fascinating collection of Warhol paintings in which he takes newspaper headlines and turns them into art. His small changes are sometimes amusing and always interesting, but the idea of just copying a newspaper kind of makes you wonder what art really is. Still, he's iconic and it was fun to see so many of his paintings in one place.

A highlight of the visit was the Portuguese tapestries -- a recently restored set of tapestries that recount the conquest of Tangiers in the early 1400s. We'd seen the Bayeux tapestries a few years ago and these were much the same but on a much grander and finer scale (after all they are 300 years later in history!). We could have spent an hour just looking at the 4 of them -- well worth the trip.

And then, surprise! A small room with some more moderns out of the regular collection including some old friends, Monet, Manet and Cezanne. Also a new Mondarian that we hadn't seen before. Quite fun.

We topped the day off with a quick trip to the National Building Museum for their new exhibit on "Unbuilt Washington" -- a collection of drawings and concepts for parts of DC that never got built. A pyramid for the Lincoln Memorial. A Memorial Bridge with medieval towers. An East Capitol street (where we live) with a row of Federal office buildings. Moving the Supreme Court to where National Stadium is now. A real fun walk down "what might have been" lane and well worth the trip.

Add in tapas at Jaleo for dinner and a brisk walk home and what could be a better day?

New Orleans -- Art

In addition to food and music, we also did some art browsing and, in the end, shopping. We love wandering around the French Quarter looking into all the art shops and chatting about what we see with the artists and/or shop owners. We did some of our usual stops, going in to see the works of Michalopolous and Dean Mitchell (both of whom we own works of).

But the revelations, as always, were in seeing new artists. One we say, loved, but did not purchase was a fellow named Peter O'Neill, who has just opened a one-person shop at the farther end of Royal St. He does a lot of mass marketing, selling his originals in glicee reproductions, which is something we aren't overwhlemed by, but his originals are just stunning. Here is one of his new pieces, called "Herald Square" that is a cool rendition of a New York City snow storm.



We also loved a number of his New Orleans based pieces, many of which were based on working man stuff -- there was a wonderful oil of a sous chef preparing a plate for serving.

We were thinking of buying one of his paintings, but in the end we didn't because we saw something we liked better -- a post-Impressionist French painting by Marcel Belle called "La Bateau Lavoir a Paris." The painting depicts a laundry boat on the Sienne from the time of the Paris Exposition in 1937. It just drew us in and we loved it, so "La Bateau" will be coming home with us to Washington, after the exhibition at the Mann Gallery, of which it is part of opens later in October. Here is the image of the painting: